Pablo Knows Best

My husband once gave me a beautiful bouquet of irises. They sat on my desk at work for a day before I brought them home for the weekend. Pablo is immediately drawn to any plants or flowers I bring into the house and the irises were no exception. He was kind enough to pose with them before knocking them down a couple of hours later. The flowers were completely mangled and ended up in the trash. I was upset at first but as it turns out irises are actually toxic to cats and dogs. The bulbs are the most potent but the flowers and leaves can also cause salivation, vomiting, drooling,lethargy, and diarrhea. Turns out Pablo knows best.

What's Your Poison?

I've always known chocolate is toxic to dogs but it was only recently I found out from a neighbor that moldy black walnuts are also a no-no...not that I'd let Andy eat anything with mold on it anyways. While it's impossible to keep an exhaustive list in our minds of things that are toxic to our pups it is a good idea to at least be familiar with some common things around the house that can cause our dogs problems:

• people food (chocolate, avocado, macadamia nuts, etc.)
• medications for people
  
• chemicals (cleaning products, pesticides, etc.)
• household plants

Click here for a Top 10 list of dogs poisons as identified by WebMD.
Click here for an ASPCA list of People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets.
Click here for a comprehensive list of toxic and non-toxic plants from the ASPCA.

I was surprised to learn raisins and grapes are toxic to canines as well as xylitol, an artificial sweetener commonly found in sugar-free gum and candy. When it comes to things in and around the house that may be toxic to our pups we all need to be vigilant and let common sense prevail. I've always had a bad habit of sharing food with my dogs in the past. Thankfully I managed to not give them anything toxic in all those years but with Andy I'm trying really hard to avoid the issue completely. This will not only keep my boy slim, it'll also ensure I don't inadvertently poison him, and that I can eat my meals in peace. That's my plan and I'm sticking to it!

Pup Tip | These Nuts Are Whack!

As we were walking Andy through a local park the other day a black walnut hit the ground a couple feet away from me with a loud thud. It fell at a pretty high velocity and had I been walking any slower it might have hit me square in the noggin - whack! Ouch! Thankfully I made it out of the park unscathed. Black walnuts are sold commercially in the U.S. but also grow in the wild. Squirrels would bring them into our backyard when we lived in Indiana and I see them all over the place here in Pennsylvania as well.

When black walnuts fall fresh from the tree they're covered with a tough husk. The husk is acid green in color and has a nice lemony scent. As the husk ages it turns black. These are the nuts you typically see on the ground in the fall. Dog owners need to be aware that these black walnuts can turn moldy. If your dog ingests a moldy black walnut he can get seriously ill. The moldy nuts are toxic and can cause tremors and seizures according to the ASPCA. Thankfully Andy pays no heed to the nuts we pass on the ground but their round shape may prove tempting to your pup. Keep them away!

Blood Sucking Ticks!

We found a tick on Andy's belly the other night. It was a wee little thing, no bigger than a sesame seed. Andy has very little fur on his belly so my husband spotted it fairly easily. I dismissed it at first thinking it was a scab but upon closer inspection saw that it was in fact a tiny tick embedded in Andy's flesh. (So gross!) I haven't been able to identify what type of tick it was but I know that it was in its nymph stage (not a full grown adult). Thankfully we had a tick remover on hand and took care of the horrid critter right away. We're going to to look into a flea and tick preventative this week to try to avoid further encounters.

Ticks are a nasty business! If you frequent parks or wooded areas with your pup, as we often do, it's imperative that you check for ticks regularly. They like burrowing into necks and bellies but be sure to check all parts of your dog, including between the toes, inside armpits, and in the ears. Ticks spread disease (Lyme is one that comes to mind) and removing them as soon as possible is key. For detailed information on how to properly remove a tick check out this page at the Humane Society of the United States' website.

Beat the Heat

How do we have a severe storm warning and a severe heat warning at the same time? I'm flummoxed. I'm also ready to say goodbye to the hot and humid days of July and ready to say hello to...the hot and humid days of August. Huh. Not much of a tradeoff. We'll have to try to make the best of it and do what we can to help Andy beat the heat. Here are some tips to help your pup stay cool as temperatures rise:

• Make sure your pup has plenty of fresh, clean water.
• Keep your pup indoors. Exposure to extreme heat and humidity can lead to heatstroke.
• Do not over-exercise your pup. If a walk is a must do it in the early morning or evening
• Never leave your pup in a car, even with the windows rolled down, on a hot day.

For more tips on how to help your pup beat the heat visit petfinder.com's article: Keep Your Dog Safe in the Heat.

Fat Boy

According to the Centers for Disease Control more than one-third of U.S. adults are obese. Given that startling statistic it's no wonder our dogs and cats are also suffering from the same threat to their health and well-being. 

This  is a photo  of Titus, a sweet beagle that saw me through  college and the first 2 years of my marriage. He died very suddenly, and though we'll never know what happened, I know his moderate obesity didn't do anything good for him; he was at least 10 pounds overweight. I didn't realize weight was an issue for Titus at the time and it only strikes me now, as I look at old photos of him, that he really was a husky boy. He was overfed and under-exercised.  Being a beagle also didn't help as some breeds are more prone to obesity than others.

I've learned so much from each of the dogs that have graced my life and I'd like to think that with each canine companion that comes my way I become a better and more responsible owner. I'm going to do my darnedest to make sure weight is never an issue for Andy. This means being mindful of his caloric intake, making sure he has a healthy and balanced diet, gets regular exercise, and visits the vet annually for a checkup.  If only I could do the same for myself!

For more information on canine weight and weight loss check out this article on WebMD's website.

Compulsive Cat

According to an article on WebMD fur isn't the issue when it comes to allergic reactions to cats; it's usually the proteins in cat saliva, their urine, and/or their dander that are the culprits. Most cat allergies can be controlled with antihistamines and decongestants, and by implementing a systematic plan of attack: minimally you should always wash your hands after petting your cat, vacuum regularly (a HEPA filter is a plus), wash bedding at least twice a month, and give your cat a high quality diet to alleviate dander.

Lick

From what I've read dog fur itself isn't an allergen but the dust and pollen that get caught in a dog's coat are. I appreciate Andy's short coat because generally speaking it means a cleaner coat. A high quality diet is important for Andy because it keeps his skin healthy and means less dander, which plays a major component in most animal allergies. Dog saliva and urine can also trigger allergies. Here are some more tips on how to combat allergies to animals, this time from the ASPCA: "Are You Allergic to Your Pet?"

Allergic to Animals?

I'm highly allergic to my furry pals and have to take copious amounts of medications to combat the symptoms of my allergies, which are caused not only by the boys but to dust and pollen in the environment. If I don't take my meds or they start to lose their effectiveness my nose leaks endlessly, I sneeze uncontrollably, my eyes itch to no end, and I feel like unzipping my skin and stepping out of it. Why the heck do I own a dog and two cats!?! Either I'm a glutton for punishment, or, I value the companionship of animals so highly I'm willing to deal with the allergies because the joy they bring me makes it worth it. My boys are so worth it! If allergies are the only thing holding you back from adopting a pup or a cat please know that it's doable. My allergies aren't going anywhere but here are some things I do to ease my symptoms: 

• I take an allergy pill daily. Sometimes I need to double down and take 2 pills - my usual daily allergy pill and something with pseudoephedrine in it to combat my runny nose (the symptom I struggle with the most)
• I use a saline spray to keep my nostrils free of dust and animal dander
• I feed my boys a high quality diet, which keeps their fur and skin healthy; this means less shedding and dander
• I vacuum and sweep regularly

I have to admit I'm actually pretty lazy when it comes to doing things to combat my allergies but I've reached a comfortable balance between symptoms I'm willing to tolerate and how much effort I'm willing to put in to fight them. Check out this Better Homes and Garden article for more tips on dealing with animal allergies.

What to do in an Emergency

We've been to animal emergency clinics on two occasions. Once, way back when, our dog at the time (Titus) got sick on a Friday night. By the time Saturday morning rolled around and we got in to see our vet she had us take him to the emergency clinic since her office closed early on Saturdays. It did not end well and Titus passed away later that evening. The second occasion occurred when Maxwell had a seizure in the middle of the night. We took him to the emergency clinic for tests, and in that instance, all turned out well.

Most vet offices won't see patients after hours and have very limited hours on weekends, if they're open at all. In case of an after hours emergency it's a good idea to know beforehand where the nearest animal emergency clinic is located. Having their number on your fridge or in your cell phone is also not a bad idea. I've consulted with a vet at an emergency clinic over the phone on 2 occasions. In both instances they were actually happy to help me over the phone and told me I didn't need to come in. I think they were just glad to chat with someone during their grave yard shift and happy to help a pup in need.

Be aware that emergency clinics do charge more for their services. It's always a good idea to call ahead and consult with the vet prior to heading over. Don't panic. In an obvious emergency (i.e. your dog was hit by a car and is bleeding to death) get over there pronto, but if the situation doesn't appear to be dire, keep a level head and give the clinic a call. If the vet doesn't think the situation is life-threatening he may give you instructions on how to handle it at home. If he determines you need to go in - you go in. I'm hoping to not ever find myself in this situation with Andy. Knock on wood!

Pup Tip | Grow Your Own Greens

Moderate consumption of grassy greens can be quite beneficial for our furry friends. Greens (such as wheat grass) are fiber rich and contain folic acid and B vitamins and are a great natural supplement to your pet's commercial diet. Both dogs and cats may benefit from eating grass when they're experiencing stomach upset. This is going to sound gross, but if they consume enough grass it'll make them vomit and help clear out their system. Cats get an added benefit in that grass can help prevent the build-up of hairballs. 

I generally wouldn't recommend letting your pets eat lawn grass if you can help it. Lawn grass may have been exposed to pesticides and harbor parasites. Pre-grown pet grass sold at pet supply stores are preferable as they're grown in controlled environments and contain nutrient rich grass (such as wheat grass) as opposed to your run of the mill Kentucky bluegrass. But at $4-6 a pop pre-grown pet grass isn't cheap so here's a fun and cost effective alternative: grow your own greens! 

Fleas Suck

July is typically the peak of flea season in our area but because we've had high heat, relatively moderate humidity, and low rain fall the past 4 weeks they haven't really been an issue. Much to the chagrin of my vet my boys don't get flea medication on a regular basis. Here's my reasoning: 1) We generally don't have a problem with fleas around my apartment complex. 2) I firmly believe that only the high end meds are effective and they are very expensive. 3) While the meds I use are safe I hesitate to expose my pets to pesticides unnecessarily. 4) I check my boys for fleas regularly and the minute I see a single flea on any one of them I apply medication to all 3 of them and then I thoroughly vacuum the house. The meds I use (Advantage) are fast and effective and I don't have to worry about fleas for another 3-4 weeks.

I realize an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, but in our case, the system I have in place works. What works best for you and your pet(s) depend on your lifestyle and environment. Check out this article on the University of California Agriculture & Natural Resources Integrated Pest Management website for more detailed (and conventional) information on flea management. The article also includes instructions on how to handle a flea emergency.

Puppy Challenge | Vaccinations

Vaccinations are an essential part of keeping your pup healthy and preventing the spread of disease. According to the ASPCA:

If his mother has a healthy immune system, a puppy will most likely receive  antibodies in mother’s milk while nursing. Puppies should receive a series of vaccinations starting at six to eight weeks of age. A veterinarian should administer a minimum of three vaccinations at three- to four-week intervals. The final dose should be administered at 16 weeks of age.

There are core and non-core vaccinations. The core vaccinations are: canine parvovirus, distemper, canine hepatitis, and rabies. Non-core vaccinations are optional and depend on your dog's age, lifestyle, and environment. Because we knew Andy would be kenneled at some point we had him vaccinated for Bordetella (kennel cough); which is actually required by most, if not all, boarding facilities. Andy is also vaccinated against Lyme Disease because we live in an area that has a lot of ticks.

Keeping up with Andy's booster shots took some coordinating but we knew it was important to make sure they happened on schedule otherwise the previous vaccinations could be rendered ineffective. We ended up at the vet's office a total of 3 times and all told spent about $250 (our vet is a little on the high end in terms of cost). Low cost vaccination clinics are readily available in most cities and are an option worth considering.

Andy ended up with a bump on his rump after one round of boosters (about the size of a small grape). The bump stuck around for about 2 weeks. According to our vet a post-vaccination bump is not uncommon. For the most part as long as it doesn't continue to grow, doesn't cause pain, or have an odor or discharge, it's no cause for worry and should go away on its own.

Check out this ASPCA article on Vaccinations for more detailed information.

Puppy Challenge | Leash Training

Leash Training: I’m not going to even pretend to be an expert on leash training. I’ve always struggled with getting my dogs to walk nice on a leash and unfortunately Andy’s no exception. Puppy attention deficit disorder + hound nose = disaster. We tried the traditional collar and leash method but his excessive tugging and rearing got old fast. Andy now wears a gentle leader. The leader has two loops. One fits over his muzzle and the other snaps behind his ears. Theoretically the leader is suppose to eliminate pulling on the leash and give me more control over Andy’s movements. In reality Andy is a stubborn pup and will pull when he really wants to pull. Right now we’re working on walking nice and getting him to walk on our left side at all times.

I’m going to defer to the ASPCA’s expert guidance at this point. Check out their Virtual Pet Behaviorist article called “Teaching Dog Not to Pull on Leash”. I’m going to try to implement their methods and will let you know how it goes. I’m also open to suggestions.

Pup Tip | Discount Toys and Treats

I was at T.J. Maxx the other day and came across a decent selection of products for pets at heavily discounted prices (as compared to retail). You name it they had it - treats, toys, grooming supplies, bowls, beds, etc. I picked up a Nylabone Dog Chew (the one shaped like a bone) that retails for $6.49 for $1.99. Got the Rhino Chew above for $2.99.

They also had an assortment of "high end" treats. I got a bag of Get Naked dental chews which retail at Petco for $7.99 for $4.99. The biscuits also retail for $7.99 at Petco but were marked $2.99 at T.J. Maxx. I picked up random products and checked expiration dates and they were all good. Marshalls (owned by the same company) also has a similar selection.

That's Entertainment! | Dog Toys

Dogs, especially puppies, need a lot of stimulation. This keeps them happy, healthy, and out of trouble. Plenty of exercise, cuddle and play time, socialization, and of course toys, are essential. The type of toys you purchase depends on your dog’s personality, preference, and chew strength. A variety of shapes, textures, and sizes will keep your pup interested.

Plush toys don’t work for Andy. He's a heavy chewer and we learned fast that his first instinct is to try to destroy any toy we give him. Rope toys helped with the discomfort of teething, but once Andy’s adult teeth came in, he ripped them to shreds within days. For the most part I don’t bother buying ropes, anything plush, or made of fabric. Through trial and error I discovered that only durable rubber (like a Kong or JW Pet Cuz Toys) and hard nylon (Nylabone) can stand the test of Andy’s chompers. Good old fashion tennis balls have also held up well. Any pups out there have a durable favorite?

Puppy Challenge | Housebreaking

Housebreaking: We didn’t bother with doggy diapers, puppy wee wee pads, or putting newspaper down on the floor. From what I’ve read you should save your money because once a pup gets used to those comforts he’s not going to want to potty outside. You basically end up housebreaking your dog twice. We started right off the bat with taking Andy outside every 2-3 hours. As a pup gets older he should be able to hold his pee for longer lengths of time. My husband and I live in an apartment so bathroom breaks means leashing up and always having poop bags on hand. Each time I took Andy out I would say, “Go potty” or “Potty Outside”. It’s important to reinforce with a verbal cue so your pup can associate the great outdoors with bathroom business.

Accidents will happen! And they did for the first 2 weeks or so. (Have plenty of paper towels and pet friendly surface cleaner on hand!). Never punish your pup for having an accident. By the time it’s said and done they have no idea what they’re getting punished for. We had to get Andy used to a regular schedule of potty breaks. First thing in the morning (before breakfast), 1-2 times in the afternoon, immediately after dinner, and right before bedtime. We also had to recognize his cues. If he really needs to go to the bathroom outside of a regularly scheduled break he’ll go sit by the door. Dogs instinctively don’t want to pee or poop where they eat or sleep. Patience and persistence will pay off!

Peace of Mind | Consider Microchipping Your Pup

Our local humane society microchips all animals prior to adoption. The cost is built into the adoption fee. Microchipping is fast and painless and can be done through your vet for about $40. The microchip is injected under the loose skin between the shoulder blades. Once microchipped it’s up to the owner to register the microchip in a national pet recovery database. Should your pet ever go astray a microchip may play a part in its safe return. I.D. tags can be lost but microchips are relatively permanent.

For more information click this link for the American Veterinary Medical Association’s FAQ page on microchipping of animals.

Let's See Some I.D. Please

At a minimum all dogs should wear an I.D. tag on their collar; a microchip in addition is ideal. Before picking Andy up from the humane society we stopped by Petco and purchased a dog tag for about $13. The tags are located at check out. Once we payed for the tag we received a token which was used to activate the engraving machine located at the front of the store. The personalized tag has Andy’s name on one side and our phone numbers on the reverse. The process was quick and painless. 

Andy sports a quick release collar. The collar has a push button clasp as opposed to a buckle. The quick release collar makes it convenient to get his collar on and off without having to bother with a buckle. In addition to the I.D. tag Andy’s collar also has his rabies tag and a tag that indicates he is microchipped. 

Because we live in a small gated community we tend to take Andy’s collar off when he’s hanging out at home. I also get annoyed by the constant tinkling of all the tags and worry it might bother my neighbors. We used to have a neighbor with a dachshund that had jingle bells on its collar and of course this neighbor insisted on taking his dog out in the middle of the night. I'm a light sleeper and woke up all the time to the sound of those bells in the hallway and I wanted to take a hammer to them on more than one occasion. For the love of God - why does a dog need bells?