Puppy Challenge | Getting Fixed | Part 2

Surgery went off without a hitch and Andy was home later that evening. We were told to let him take it easy, to keep him from running or jumping, and to prevent him from licking his incision. This is where the elizabethan collar (i.e. e-collar, i.e. cone of shame) came into play. We had to shell out $15 for this thing and in the end Andy only wore it on and off for all of 2 days. When he wasn't wearing it he showed almost no interest in his incision so we decided to spare him the discomfort of wearing the collar. Any time he tried to lick his incision we told him to stop and blocked him from doing it and that was enough to get him to stop altogether. It might be worth asking around to see if anyone has an e-collar sitting around they can lend you. $15 seems like a lot of money for something that will likely never get used again.

Andy was up and at em' the day of his surgery. In fact I had to keep him from jumping up and off the back of the couch. He was harassing his brothers even while wearing the e-collar! The vet gave us 5 days of pain meds which Andy gobbled up like treats. It's a known fact that dogs mask their pain so be mindful of your pup's comfort level. Every animal reacts to surgery differently and it's important to keep a close eye on your post-op pup and consult with your vet if you have any concerns. By the end of the week Andy's outer incision had mostly healed. Apparently there are 2 incisions involved with a neuter - an inner and outer - so even if the outer looks healed the inner may still be in the healing process and your pup needs to keep taking it easy. Spays are more involved and so is the healing process. All in all Andy's neuter was a worth while procedure and I don't think he even knows what he's missing! 

Puppy Challenge | Getting Fixed | Part 1

According to the Humane Society of the United States:

In every community, in every state, there are homeless animals. In the U.S. as a whole, there are an estimated 6-8 million homeless animals entering animal shelters every year. About half of these animals are adopted, and tragically, the other half are euthanized. These are healthy, sweet pets who would have made great companions.

We can all help alleviate pet overpopulation, which contributes to animal homelessness and euthanasia, by spaying and neutering our pets. Andy wasn't neutered when we adopted him. The humane society we adopted him from doesn't believe in "pediatric neutering" - surgery before the age of 6 months. Because Andy was younger than 6 months at adoption we had to purchase a neuter certificate that we could redeem once he hit the minimum age. Apparently there's some debate amongst vets over the minimum age a dog should be before getting fixed. Some believe there are risks associated with "pediatric neutering" - anesthesia, stunted growth, urinary incontinence, etc. (For more information on this debate check out the ASPCA's article, Early Spay/Neuter). Others argue that it is perfectly safe and is added insurance against unwanted pregnancies.

Andy was neutered on June 22. Even though it was a routine procedure I was a little nervous. Anytime anesthesia's involved there are risks of complications. I've also always been a little squeamish about the post-surgery issues - What if he gets an infection? What if his sutures pop? What if I lift him the wrong way and cause him pain? We were told by the vet not to give him anything to eat after midnight the night before surgery. Food in the stomach + anesthesia = the potential for vomiting. Even if it was for his own good Andy was irked he didn't get any breakfast! We opted to pay extra and get pre-anesthesia blood work done. The tests checked Andy's kidney and liver functions to make sure he would do ok under anesthesia. Check-in was quick and everything was left in the good hands of the vet.   

Puppy Challenge | Vaccinations

Vaccinations are an essential part of keeping your pup healthy and preventing the spread of disease. According to the ASPCA:

If his mother has a healthy immune system, a puppy will most likely receive  antibodies in mother’s milk while nursing. Puppies should receive a series of vaccinations starting at six to eight weeks of age. A veterinarian should administer a minimum of three vaccinations at three- to four-week intervals. The final dose should be administered at 16 weeks of age.

There are core and non-core vaccinations. The core vaccinations are: canine parvovirus, distemper, canine hepatitis, and rabies. Non-core vaccinations are optional and depend on your dog's age, lifestyle, and environment. Because we knew Andy would be kenneled at some point we had him vaccinated for Bordetella (kennel cough); which is actually required by most, if not all, boarding facilities. Andy is also vaccinated against Lyme Disease because we live in an area that has a lot of ticks.

Keeping up with Andy's booster shots took some coordinating but we knew it was important to make sure they happened on schedule otherwise the previous vaccinations could be rendered ineffective. We ended up at the vet's office a total of 3 times and all told spent about $250 (our vet is a little on the high end in terms of cost). Low cost vaccination clinics are readily available in most cities and are an option worth considering.

Andy ended up with a bump on his rump after one round of boosters (about the size of a small grape). The bump stuck around for about 2 weeks. According to our vet a post-vaccination bump is not uncommon. For the most part as long as it doesn't continue to grow, doesn't cause pain, or have an odor or discharge, it's no cause for worry and should go away on its own.

Check out this ASPCA article on Vaccinations for more detailed information.

Puppy Challenge | Teething

Teething: Puppies start losing their baby teeth around week 8. Andy was already teething when we got him…which meant he came to us with the urge to chew on everything and everyone. I was a little freaked out when I came across him chewing a bloody toy. It took me a while to realize that his baby teeth were in the process of falling out. When I peeked into his mouth I saw a bit of blood and could reach in a wiggle some of the looser teeth around. 

Teething pups need appropriate things to chew on in order to relieve the pressure of their adult teeth coming in. We tried to give Andy a variety of toys with different shapes and textures to keep him interested. Any time we would catch him chewing on something off limits we would immediately tell him no and hand him a toy instead. We also supplemented with a steady flow of ice cubes and dental chews. Those are some of Andy's baby teeth in the photo above. I came across 3 of them as I was sweeping the floor. The other I actually caught Andy chewing on. Don't know what I'll do with them. Put them in his baby book? Just kidding. There is no baby book. That would be a little odd, no?

Puppy Challenge | Leash Training

Leash Training: I’m not going to even pretend to be an expert on leash training. I’ve always struggled with getting my dogs to walk nice on a leash and unfortunately Andy’s no exception. Puppy attention deficit disorder + hound nose = disaster. We tried the traditional collar and leash method but his excessive tugging and rearing got old fast. Andy now wears a gentle leader. The leader has two loops. One fits over his muzzle and the other snaps behind his ears. Theoretically the leader is suppose to eliminate pulling on the leash and give me more control over Andy’s movements. In reality Andy is a stubborn pup and will pull when he really wants to pull. Right now we’re working on walking nice and getting him to walk on our left side at all times.

I’m going to defer to the ASPCA’s expert guidance at this point. Check out their Virtual Pet Behaviorist article called “Teaching Dog Not to Pull on Leash”. I’m going to try to implement their methods and will let you know how it goes. I’m also open to suggestions.

Puppy Challenge | Housebreaking

Housebreaking: We didn’t bother with doggy diapers, puppy wee wee pads, or putting newspaper down on the floor. From what I’ve read you should save your money because once a pup gets used to those comforts he’s not going to want to potty outside. You basically end up housebreaking your dog twice. We started right off the bat with taking Andy outside every 2-3 hours. As a pup gets older he should be able to hold his pee for longer lengths of time. My husband and I live in an apartment so bathroom breaks means leashing up and always having poop bags on hand. Each time I took Andy out I would say, “Go potty” or “Potty Outside”. It’s important to reinforce with a verbal cue so your pup can associate the great outdoors with bathroom business.

Accidents will happen! And they did for the first 2 weeks or so. (Have plenty of paper towels and pet friendly surface cleaner on hand!). Never punish your pup for having an accident. By the time it’s said and done they have no idea what they’re getting punished for. We had to get Andy used to a regular schedule of potty breaks. First thing in the morning (before breakfast), 1-2 times in the afternoon, immediately after dinner, and right before bedtime. We also had to recognize his cues. If he really needs to go to the bathroom outside of a regularly scheduled break he’ll go sit by the door. Dogs instinctively don’t want to pee or poop where they eat or sleep. Patience and persistence will pay off!